Be very careful with this bolt, I accidentally broke the head off from over tightening it.Ģ3. Underneath the car, re-install the green O-ring and put the 10mm bolt back. Slide the top end into the radiator, secure the clamp and use a ziptie to keep it tight. Slide the ATF cooler hose back in and secure the 12mm bracket bolt. Many people have had this hose blow off under boost after removing it because they didn't tighten it down enough.Ģ2. Slide the turbo to intercooler hose back into place and secure the 7mm bolts on the clamps. Haines listed 37ft lbs for the engine mount and 27ft lbs + 60 degrees for the transmission mount.Ģ1. Drop the engine/trans slowly making sure the mounts line up correctly and then re-istall the 18mm and 14mm bolts for the transmission and front engine mount respectively. Be careful and make sure the ATF dipstick has not popped out of the transmission while you were pushing it out of the way.Ģ0. You don't want to have to remove everything again to fix this so do this step now. My first time around I did this step last once I had re-installed everything only to find I had a huge leak around the new gasket. Once the pan is bolted back on to the transmission you'll want to fill it up with transmission fluid again to make sure your new gasket isn't leaking. No torque spec available that I could find. I snugged them all up and then went around in a roughly star pattern to tighten them down all the way. You can see how thin and poorly fitted it was. This also gave me an opportunity to practice putting the hard to reach bolts back in. I did a test fit and secured the gasket to the transmission side with all 9 bolts to make sure they would go in nicely. From my first try I also learned that the holes need to be as close to perfect as possible to ensure the T40 bolts fit nicely on the first try without damaging the gasket material as you try to force them in. When I was satisfied I placed it on the transmission side mating surface and made corrections as needed, cutting out a little excess material here and there. Then I marked where the holes should go and cut everything out roughly. Using the pan cover as a guide, I traced the shape out. This gasket was much better but still didn't look good enough and after my first experience I wasn't about to take a chance here so I made a 3rd gasket. I had to take everything apart again and I made a second gasket with 1/32 inch gasket paper. This gasket did not work and I had ATF leaking out quickly. The first gasket was made with 1/32 inch cork paper. This was surprisingly difficult for me and I made 3 gaskets until I was happy. With the solenoids replaced you can now move onto gasket making. Mix of long and short extensions for the ratchesġ7. Metric Set of Open/Box End Wrenches (7mm and up)Ģ2mm Open End Wrench and/or Crowfoot Wrench His tips saved me a couple of times.ģ/8" Drive T40 Bit (I had a short one and a slightly longer one, I found both were very helpful) I would also like to personally thank forum member daversm who helped me out a lot with his posts on his experience performing this same repair. Pages 3 and 4 have more detailed information about the differences between the S1 and S2 solenoids. This write up has a lot of great information. Their's are $23- $25 so much, much cheaper. Most vendors have the solenoids for $100+ online I got mine from Trans Parts Direct. On 95 and later model cars with Aw50-42 auto transmissions, S1 should be 5040310002N, S2 is 6843783 and the lock up solenoid is 6843784. This explains why many Volvo parts vendors have the same part number for S1 and S2. Earlier models had S1 and S2 as the same solenoid. My particular car is a 1995 model and the S1 and S2 solenoids are different. This is a write up for replacing the shift solenoids in the AW50-42 transmission on a Volvo 850.
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